Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park lies in the southern part of the Kalahari and has exactly the landscape this desert is so famous for: deep red sand dunes, golden-yellow grass and acacia trees that stand out sharply against an almost always blue sky. The park is at its most beautiful towards the end of the day, when the soft light falls across the dunes.

We have visited Kgalagadi several times, and every trip has resulted in memorable encounters. One of our finest sightings was of a cheetah walking along the tops of the red dunes, constantly scanning for its next prey. The park is known for its lions, leopards and cheetahs, which can often be seen from the dry riverbeds or at the waterholes. With a great deal of luck, you may even spot a caracal, although an encounter with this shy cat species remains special.

On the South African side are the larger rest camps Twee Rivieren, Mataa-Mataa and Nossob, with campsites, chalets and a few basic facilities. Those seeking greater peace and quiet can choose one of the smaller wilderness camps, often in remote locations overlooking a waterhole or the dunes. The distances within the park are greater than they appear on the map: driving from Twee Rivieren to Mata-Mata takes around three and a half hours, and to Nossob approximately four and a half hours.

Kgalagadi also forms a unique link between South Africa, Namibia and Botswana. Via Mata-Mata, you can cross the border into Namibia, while adventurous 4x4 travellers can continue via the Botswana side to Mabuasehube. The approximately 170-kilometre-long Bosobogolo Trail leads through deep Kalahari sand and is driven over two days, with a compulsory overnight stay at Matopi. Those who would rather skip this challenging route can also reach Mabuasehube via Tsabong, an alternative that we include in one of our trips.